Have You Hiked Your Volcano Today? – Bequia, The Grenedines, March 22, 2024

Have You Hiked Your Volcano Today? – Bequia, The Grenedines, March 22, 2024

We left off our story in Portsmouth, Dominica and I have to say we have changed our mind about this island, so we were eager to give Martinique another try as well.  It is a French Island but also one of the richer ones.  Things had not been difficult enough lately, so we decided to start off by climbing the active volcano of the island – Mount Pelee.  The elevation gain in the hike is nearly 2158 feet but the trail is supposed to be well traveled.  We had rented a car for the day and drove the 2 hours to the northwest side of the island. 

It last erupted in 1932 but the worst eruption destroying the town of St. Pierre (which we had just stopped to visit).  It killed 28,000 people there and the only known survivor was an inmate in the jail.  He was badly burned but once he recovered, he was immediately hired by Barnum & Bailey’s circus!?!  The museum there was cool along with the ruins from the eruption.

Artifact collected after the eruption
Various metals melted together
Amazing what survived

We drove the 2 hours from the anchorage of Le Merin part way up to the volcano to where the trail started (after it had stopped raining that morning).  As we started the hike it was VERY muddy with a lot of standing water on the trail.  We weren’t the only idiots out there but after about half a mile, we decided to jump ship on the trail and go somewhere else for our hike due to all the mud.  It was still worth the drive there and even the top of the hill where the trail starts has beautiful views of the town and the rainforest. 

How do you get to the top
This is 8 feet high. Not a trail
Steps up I guess.

Our next stop was a quick 5-hour sail to Marigot Bay, St. Lucia for a quick overnight.  We had been here before and thought it was a bit shady then but this time it was actually worse.  We were approached several times by the locals trying to sell us stuff.  This was expected but the final approach was after dark, two guys in a dinghy called “Tip-Sex” came and basically tried to get us to take them with us to St. Vincent.  That when it got uncomfortable and while Ron was trying to be cordial, by asking “what do you do?”…his answer was “I hustle.” We did finally get them to leave by assuring them we would discuss this with them in the morning (knowing we had a 5:00am departure date) and when they were planning to show up at 9:00am, we would be long gone.  It’s amazing how quickly forget how poor this island is regardless of how nice and what a vacation hotspot Marigot Bay is. 

We did head out at 5:00am without issue and once again decided to skip St. Vincent.  This is based not only on the recent incident in Grenada where a yacht was boarded but also on our recent experience in Marigot Bay and head straight to Bequia.  It really is the major downside on these southern islands.  The upside is the waters in Bequia are beautiful and Ron was planning to teach me a few scuba diving skills while we are here the next couple of days.  Yeah! 

Bequia sunset

What’s a Rostafarian? – Rodney Bay, St. Lucia, May 15, 2023

What’s a Rostafarian? – Rodney Bay, St. Lucia, May 15, 2023

On a boat, no luxury comes without a price. The good news is we spent 4 days basking in our air conditioning, however, somehow we now have a mystery water leak. Ron searched the boat and two good things:

  1. It isn’t a big leak, so the bilge alarm doesn’t go off all that often
  2. It’s fresh water so the boat isn’t sinking but, the fresh water pressure goes off every other hour

We think it is from our air conditioner and since we really have not used it all season, it would not surprise me.  Ron got to work unclogging the drain and for now it seems better.

Boat yoga sucks

We decided to rent a car to see a bit of the island as long as we had to wait til Tuesday to travel again anyway for the right weather. St. Lucia is supposed to be dangerous but really only in one of the southern anchorages Soufriere Bay which we have zero intention of going to. The poverty here is clear based on our drive around the island and the average Monthly salary is less than $1,100 USD.

Poverty everywhere

St. Lucia was a British colony and the issue with many of these small islands is they have one main crop – bananas – and these plantations get wiped out every couple of years due to hurricanes.  This is also a dormant volcano and I have to say driving here is insane.  Sailing hubby did a great job considering the steering wheel is on the opposite side of the car, on the opposite side of the road, and the lanes are only about a lane and a half for what should be a two lane road.  Not to mention since it is a volcano, the roads are basically a cliff and windy as heck!

Driving on these Roads are no joke

We had intended for to go hiking through the rainforest here today, however, when we got to our trail of choice (which wasn’t a full scale of Mount Piton – the volcano which requires a guide), it was closed and the gate chained shut.  Just our luck once again.  Well now what?

No hike for you here today

We started to drive back and tripped on another trail which also appeared to be a parrot sanctuary.  It looked open so we parked and when we walked up to it, it appeared to be someone’s house.  We were about to leave when a gentleman came out and invited us in and to show us the trail.  He ended up being our guide and his name was Ases, who owned the property, and his dream was to turn it into a park and sanctuary.  Only Ron and I would walk into the rainforest with a stranger, who handed us a couple hiking sticks, picked up his machete, and off we went up hill.

Along the way we got to know him a bit and he was a Rastafarian.  He had spent 12 years living and working as an architect in Canada before buying his father’s property to turn into a park.  He had built himself a house on the property, was a vegan (as most Rastafarian’s are) and his religion is all about we are all one and one with the planet. 

The hidden treasure.
Ases house
Cool flowers along the way.
Ases harvest a coconut and bananas
Drying cocoa.
His backyard view.

He was intelligent, articulate, and super interesting.  He showed us a cinnamon tree and apparently, we get cinnamon from the bark.  We also saw an incense tree and Frankincense is the sap from the tree – who knew?  He grew most of his own food and had bananas, citrus, yams, and a bunch more.  He was focused on planting a specific type of pear that attracts the parrots so they would come to nest on his land.  There is one type of parrot that only lives on St. Lucia, and he is trying to keep is from going extinct.  It’s no wonder these are called “the spice islands.”

By the time we reached the end of the path we had a spectacular view of the Piton Volcano, which is two peaks, and their national beer is named after these peaks.   He sent us home with fresh locally grown organic bananas and a sour orange.  It makes great smoothies with almond milk & bananas!

A bit of canopy to hid from the hot sun.
Piton in a distance
New island new beer.

After our super interesting time with Ases, we headed over to Diamond Falls.  We had enjoyed our last botanical garden experience, and this was a nice end to our day.

Flowers do not get old.
Love the contrasting colors
The water changes color every few hours due to volcano
Diamond falls.