Have You Hiked Your Volcano Today? – Bequia, The Grenedines, March 22, 2024

Have You Hiked Your Volcano Today? – Bequia, The Grenedines, March 22, 2024

We left off our story in Portsmouth, Dominica and I have to say we have changed our mind about this island, so we were eager to give Martinique another try as well.  It is a French Island but also one of the richer ones.  Things had not been difficult enough lately, so we decided to start off by climbing the active volcano of the island – Mount Pelee.  The elevation gain in the hike is nearly 2158 feet but the trail is supposed to be well traveled.  We had rented a car for the day and drove the 2 hours to the northwest side of the island. 

It last erupted in 1932 but the worst eruption destroying the town of St. Pierre (which we had just stopped to visit).  It killed 28,000 people there and the only known survivor was an inmate in the jail.  He was badly burned but once he recovered, he was immediately hired by Barnum & Bailey’s circus!?!  The museum there was cool along with the ruins from the eruption.

Artifact collected after the eruption
Various metals melted together
Amazing what survived

We drove the 2 hours from the anchorage of Le Merin part way up to the volcano to where the trail started (after it had stopped raining that morning).  As we started the hike it was VERY muddy with a lot of standing water on the trail.  We weren’t the only idiots out there but after about half a mile, we decided to jump ship on the trail and go somewhere else for our hike due to all the mud.  It was still worth the drive there and even the top of the hill where the trail starts has beautiful views of the town and the rainforest. 

How do you get to the top
This is 8 feet high. Not a trail
Steps up I guess.

Our next stop was a quick 5-hour sail to Marigot Bay, St. Lucia for a quick overnight.  We had been here before and thought it was a bit shady then but this time it was actually worse.  We were approached several times by the locals trying to sell us stuff.  This was expected but the final approach was after dark, two guys in a dinghy called “Tip-Sex” came and basically tried to get us to take them with us to St. Vincent.  That when it got uncomfortable and while Ron was trying to be cordial, by asking “what do you do?”…his answer was “I hustle.” We did finally get them to leave by assuring them we would discuss this with them in the morning (knowing we had a 5:00am departure date) and when they were planning to show up at 9:00am, we would be long gone.  It’s amazing how quickly forget how poor this island is regardless of how nice and what a vacation hotspot Marigot Bay is. 

We did head out at 5:00am without issue and once again decided to skip St. Vincent.  This is based not only on the recent incident in Grenada where a yacht was boarded but also on our recent experience in Marigot Bay and head straight to Bequia.  It really is the major downside on these southern islands.  The upside is the waters in Bequia are beautiful and Ron was planning to teach me a few scuba diving skills while we are here the next couple of days.  Yeah! 

Bequia sunset

Feel the Burn – Rodney Bay, St. Lucia, May 12, 2023

Feel the Burn – Rodney Bay, St. Lucia, May 12, 2023

We had moved to Roseau anchorage off the south coast of Dominica in hopes of getting some relief from our rolly northern anchorage in Portsmith but sadly…it was worse.  Ever heard of a “Jump Up?”  Let me explain…this is a party on shore where they play very offensive extremely loud music til 6:00am.  So, with no sleep whatsoever, we decided to get an early start and make the jump to Martinique.  It must be better there, right?

Martinique was a 53 mile sail (so ALLLLL day) and when we got there, it was packed.  We Stayed in Grande Anse D’Arlets which is a small bay just south of Fort De France.  Fort De France is the main harbor but doesn’t have a great reputation for crime so we had hoped to avoid this by going south.  The good news is it was a lovely tourist area with lots of restaurants, dive shops, day tours, and an easy walk to customs to get checked it.  It was still rolly but at least they didn’t have the all night parties we had just experienced.  Since it was Saturday we knew customs would be closed and we would have to wait til Monday so we grabbed dinner and crashed.

The next morning, we had decided to do another death march up to the top of the volcano to see the bay next door and scout out where the customs office was located.  This hike was beautiful and only slightly easier than our last major hike since it was a mile shorter at 4.2 miles. 

Every hike is either straight up or down.
Not sure the significance
The views incredible
Wow

Monday morning with paperwork in hand, we decided to take the road and walk to the bay next door instead of another volcano climb which was only about a 40-minute walk.  Unbeknownst to us…it is another holiday…Victory Day and customs office was closed.  So, home we went, and we took advantage of the day by jumping off the boat and snorkeling at our anchorage which had a lot of current but some nice coral.  Then on Tuesday morning…back to customs we went.  The check in was easy and the staff was nice so we had a chance to do some more snorkeling for the next couple of days.

Sadly at this point we have been travelling pretty much non-stop for the last 3 years.  I guess that is what happens when you sell your house.  Anyway, we are starting to really feel the burn of the constantness of all of it all and these islands are really starting to look and feel the same.  It was time for a long overdue break. 

We checked out and went south again to St. Lucia yesterday and headed to Rodney Bay Marina for a chance to not have a rolly anchorage and sleep in some air conditioning!  Woo Hoo!  The last time we had this was in Fort Pierce during Hurricane Nicole when we had to get a hotel room.  Let me tell you that the islands are really starting to get hot and humid now and this was a very welcome change.  My comfort is not getting in my way, that is for sure.

We accidentally found out we are here during their Jazz & Arts Festival taking place this weekend and we hope to check this out in addition to renting a car to see a bit of this island.  Once again, we are waiting for the weather which means our next travel day isn’t until Tuesday.  I am sure we can entertain ourselves here with the nice marina, restaurants, and sightseeing.  More to come…