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About Ron C

Hi, I'm Sally and this is my husband, Ron. I’ve been doing marketing for the last 30 years for tech companies and Ron is a biomedical engineer. Basically, he knows what he is doing and well, I don't. However, the yin and yang of our relationship is total bliss. We decided after 10 years of marriage, the joy of suburbia, and years of travelling, that this was for us. So, we saved, retired, and this is our story. We’ve taken trips to Costa Rica and love it. Nowhere on earth can you see that many masonry animal statues and not a pothole crew in site. Beautiful. Then there was Jamaica where the night before we left, I broke my big toe and was not able to go into the water. Instead, we experienced the most amazing singing bartender while drinking "Shit on the Grass." No lie. Then there was British Virgin Islands where we chartered a boat three times. Twice with just us and the final time with our 4 daughters. Man, there is no better way to hear your kids complain than in a space that small. That was some quality family time there. Now we are empty nesters, we have purchased a Leppard Catamaran and you are invited to come along for the ride. Should be a total hoot.

A Story of the death of Mariposa and the insurance aftermath – Maui, HI, November 6, 2024

It has been a tough year for Mariposa. At the end of the 2024 sailing season, Mariposa was looking to be in great shape. We slowly upgraded her over the years and she was finally the perfect boat when we hauled her out for hurricane season. Carriacou while out of the offical hurricane belt, it was still enough north that there was still a risk. Keeping her on the hard allowed us the best chance to survive a storm in the event it made it that far south. Fast forward to June 30, Hurricane Beryl made a direct hit as a Cat 5. Nothing can live through that kind of storm. In fact 99 percent of the structures on that island were destroyed. We were desperate to know the state of the island after hurricane. Scanning Facebook photos we saw a few that did not give us alot of hope. Searching for anyone to contact I found an incredible person that would send a video of Mariposa and her damage. At first it appeared Mariposa would only loose her mast which was replaceable. We were hopeful and I made plans to get on the island as soon as possible to asses the damage first hand.

Direct hit at Cat 5 strength
Mariposa is someplace there
First photos she may be ok

Getting on the island is a challenge, you have to fly to Grenada and then hope a ferry over to Carriacou. The Minister on the island haulted travel to that island in an attempt to prevent looting. Once traveled was allowed again I was on the first ferry ride across. Northern Grenada looked pretty good but the more north I went you could see the damage to the trees, and most everything on the north side of the island was blown away. Carriacou is another 20 miles north and I wondered what it would be like when I got there. To say I was shocked is an understatment. The entire island was stripped of its tropical vegitation and what houses survived would be without a roof. Every boat in the mangroves was either sunk, flipped over or stacked on top of one another in the leeward corner of the lagoon. Devistation was everywhere and it was beyound anything I was prepared for. The boat yard destruction was even worse. 50 foot catamarans were flipped upside down, or pushed several feet from their orginal resting point and every single monohull was laying on its side from falling off its boat stands. It was chaos.

Supplies for my stay on Mariposa
One of my new friends the shirt says it all.
The island was stripped of everything green
Flipped like a toy missing Mariposa by inches
Everything destroyed.

Since there was no infustructure on the island I quickly setup Mariposa for my expended stay. She was somewhat dry inside so I could camp in her for my time on the island to asses the damage.

Houston we have a problem.

Day two on the island I starting to asses the extent of damage mariposa sustained. Not only did she loose her mast, but when the mast fell a 5 foot structural crack was created from the force of the mast falling on the super structure. This crack allowed seawater and rainwater to soak the structure of the boat. Once inside the boat I noticed that the keels substained major damage from the rocking back and forth during the height of the storm. While that is fixable, the incredible challange to fixing it on an island that has lost everything is a monster challenge. The dingy itself was ripped from the davits and layed under Mariposa in about a foot of sea water upside down completely destroying the engine. It did not look good.

It will buff out right?

Luckily we were insured and that gave us a bit of comfort that we would at least be financially protected or so we thought. Let me outline the experience we had with a carrier that had a history of being a great company that was fair and would pay a claim quickly. While I was on the island, I planned to secure Mariposa the best I could and meet with the surveryor to asses the damage together. I will not get into to many details other then the surveyor was the least professional person I have ever met. He is staying in the bay on a 50 foot catamaran he chartered down and could only complain it did not have AC. Keep in mind no one on the island had a place to stay that had a roof, AC, or even drinking water was available. He was a peice of work. His survey process was to only take photos of what I pointed out as damage and then suggested the damage was minimal and fixable. The only really purpose of that trip was to actually check the manufacture dates of the fire extinshers to ensure that they were within a year old. That at first seems odd to me for a boat damaged by a hurricane. When I read through the insurance contract it states that they need to be replaced yearly or the contract could was not fullfilled and they would denign my claim. Lucky we just bought ours but seeing how they were only interesting in finding ways I was deficient in holding up my end of the contract made me uneasy for the rest of the process.

Everything destroyed

Fast forward a month after the hurricane we were still waiting for the damage report from the surveyor to get some kind of indication of if we would be covered for this claim. I have had plenty of surveys and tyically it takes a few days for the report to be finalized and sent. In this case an entire month. To make matters worse I would not get a copy of this report. It is strickly the property of the insurance carrier and they can withhold the damage details. Once the report was finalized we get word back that Mariposa was deamed repairable and to start getting quotes for getting her repaired. Imagine getting a quote for repair work where the island itself had no infustructure for basic human life let alone the skilled labor and materials to do the work. As I tried to start getting quotes I quickly came to the realization Mariposa would need to be moved to Grenada for repairs. Problem number two, how do you get a questionable seaworthy boat 60 miles south in open ocean for repair work? At this point I decided to write up my own survey report and send to the insurance adjuster in an attempt to show them the damage and salvage costs would quickly add up to a level that exceeded the value of Mariposa.

Now let’s move on to the salvage companies which are the human equilavent to vultures. In this case the company is known as Husky Salvage, who comes from the British Virgin Islands. They actually wore shirts that said “Your Mayday is our Pay Day!” They arrived a few weeks after the hurricane to capitilize on the work that needed to be done to save the boat yard. They rented a local crane for about 1 thousand dollars a day and then proceeded to charge the boat owners salvage rates that were ten times the going rate for the work. For example, if you can get a mast removed in normal times for around $600 USD, Husky would charge $6000 USD. This is about an hours worth of work. You can move the boat with the travel lift for about $250 USD, except that the travel lift in Tyrell Bay was damaged in the hurricane. After the hurricane that price jumped to $25000 USD on the same travel lift. To make matters worse the Boat Yard (Tyrell Bay Marina) would get a cut in the profits if they would only allow Husky to do the yard work. The majority of the boats were damaged beyound repair and the majority of those owners did not or could not afford insurance therefore many lost their boats. As they tried to minimize their finacial loss Husky would make that as painful as possible. I know of several boats that Husky purchased from the owners for a rediculously low price and then turned around the next day to sell the very same boat for 10 times the purchasing price. It was an impossibly unfair time in the boat yard. I was not sure how I could navigate that nor how they sleep at night.

Husky salvages actually shirt worn during cleanup.

Back to Mariposa and my report. After a week of letting the adjuster examine my report they started to talk about Mariposa being considered a total loss. This was good news and bad news. The good news is well maybe we do not have to navigate the impossible process of getting her repaired on an island that had to skilled labor. The bad news is well we just lost our home we have worked so hard on. In some instances once the insurance adjuster declares a boat a total loss you either get to keep them to dispose of or buy them back for a few thousand dollars. The Insurance carriers do not want the added cost of dealing with a damaged boat. I was hopefull we would have that option so I jumped on a plane to head down and salvage more of Mariposa the potential to keep her. As I landed in Grenada, I was informed by the adjuster that we could buy Mariposa back for $70,000 USD. The going rate for these boats should be right about $2000-$3000 USD thousand dollars. My trip quickly turned into a trip to say good bye to my freinds on the island and gather what personal items I could. Imagine going through everything you own on this planet and deciding what fits into a few bags of luggage. It is not a pleasant process.

Everything we salvaged fits into a few bags

Fast forward 5 months from the date the hurricane hit we finally get an insurance payout minues a 20 percent deductible since it was a wind storm event. If we sunk or caught fire we would have had zero deductible, go figure. Sure glad our fire extingishers prevented a fire. The carrier I choose to insure with was known for using fair adjusters and would pay a claim in a matter of days. In our case, our carrier(Concept Special Risk) used Sedgwick Marine services as an adjuster. They were about as shadey as a company can be and in the end held the payment until they very last day the contract would allow them too. I can not every recommend Concept Special Risk to anyone looking for marine insurance. Stay clear and save yourself some headache.

Final night on Mariposa perfect view

Things we have learned in this process include, read every word on your insurance contract. I know people that were denied a claim because their fire extingsihers were 2 years old. Keep in mind the Coast Guard recommend fire extingishers be replaced every 10 years. You will need to come up with a hurricane plan and stick to it. Be where you say you will be, and do what you say you will do. One poor soul was not strapped down prior to the hurricane due to a boat yard mistake. His claim was denied and he lost his boat. No one in the insurance business is your freind. This is a money tranaction based on a contract and make sure you hold up your end of the contract. One insignificant mistake and you can and will be denied. Your Insurance agent should be your advocate to the insurnace carrier. This is perhaps the most important thing we learned. Our Agent was perhaps the very worst. While they gave a few helpful hints on the process, they were absent through most of the process and got in the way in many aspects. Know you are on your own.

We learned alot of painful lessons in this process, however I also learned that there are alot of incredible human spirits as well. I made many life long freinds with sailors and locals that lost everything. From my taxi driver that I now talk to every few weeks just to check on each other to the family who lost their house, their car, their boat and their business. They are all proof that the human spirit is alive and well.

My new freind the taxi driver.

3500 Mile Report, Boulder City, NV

Somewhere along the Mojave Desert on a date I can not remember….

Ever listen to the song “Horse with No Name” by America? You should give it a listen. I have had this song playing through my head since we began this trip, perhaps it was the environment.

To date we are 3500+ miles into this adventure as we sit here at top of Hoover Damn in 114 degree temperatures. So far it has been a pretty epic trip (with not so epic logistic.) Much like in sailing, the weather has dictated when, where, and what time we ride. It was pretty easy until we hit Texas, when once you get west of Texas into New Mexico, you start to experience weather events which include dust storms, monsoons, and surface heat equivalent to the sun. Much like our sailing season we were clueless as to the extent the weather would play. I thought once we get to the southwest it would be hot but monsoon rains and dust storms were not really part of that picture. I should of paid more attention in geography class as a kid! I guess it makes sense, most of the incredible views in the southwest has been made from those monsoon rains and epic wind storms. Unlike sailing weather you can not just listen to the weather report and plan, here in the desert these events tend to pop up at random (or random to me). Thankfully you can see them coming from miles away so you can alter plans accordingly. A ranger told us to stay out of the canyons when there is rain on the horizon, these places tend to flash flood in an instant and well the Harley does not float. Same goes for the wind storms. Dust storms however only happen when the winds top 70MPH+. The reasoning is all the smaller dust has long since been blown away. Higher winds mean larger “pebbles”. I can not imagine riding into one of those. In contrast we have experienced the mushy feeling of the bike tires melting on the desert highway, the sensation of your sunglasses being blown from your face in an unexpected crosswind or a sunburn on top of your SPF75 soaked skin. It has been an adventure!

Back to the logistics of this trip. Since the distance we travel in a day is based on the heat, random weather events and traffic we do not reserve a hotel room in advance. Instead it is easier to just ride until you get tired or find an interesting place to explore. At that point it is easy to find a hotel in that area. Gas stops however require a bit more planning. The Harley gets about 50MPG and holds about 4 gallons of fuel. That gives us range of 200 miles. Seems pretty reasonable until you get to the isolation of some of the desert roads where you can go 50-75 miles with nothing in sight. After a few close calls we now refuel before we get to less then 2 gallons of fuel on board. Ever push an out of gas Harley? I have and you do not want to do it. A long day for us is about 350 highway miles. It’s easy to do in a car where you are protected from the elements but a bit brutal out in the sun, wind and rain. Typically we roll into town, see what hotel options we have, drive by them in an attempt to see if they are in an area where we feel safe that the bike will be there the next morning. You can not really trust the reviews, we have been burnt a few times. All in all it is pretty simple once I put it into words. Going from a life of super structure to one that is changing every few hours is exactly what this journey was suppose to be. The inner growth potential has been incredible!

One last comment before I stop rambling. I have had several people comment on doing this trip on a motorcycle. Sure it is a bit more difficult then in a car where you are sheltered from the elements I have written about above and to be honest, I would not have wanted to do this trip any other way. The experience is so much more immersive. You smell the incoming rain storm, you can feel the temperature changes of the elevation changes. The dry smell of the desert in contrast to the sweet smell of pine as climb out of the valleys. It is just an experience that can not be missed and one we had not intended.

Personalized parking space

Downtime, Jekyll Island

A few things Sally and I have realized the past few months is we do not do well with downtime. We came from two busy careers, raised four kids and bought/built/sold several houses. Downtime is not a something we do well. We hauled Mariposa mid April, then spent a month doing boat projects to prepare for next season. The next month we spent on Jekyll Island house sitting while completing a few more boat projects. Once we ran out of boat projects the days began to grow longer and longer. At one point we decided to try and walk around the island on only the beach. That only took a few days, so then we decided to walk on all of the walking trails that spread over the island. A week later that was competed. Now what? I guess we could of attempted to swim about the island however much of that is marsh and very real idea of running into an alligator, we quickly passed on that foolish idea. It is not a very big island but in those few weeks we walked about 145 miles, dodged thunderstorms, changing tides and relentless bugs. Georga insects are no joke! If you want to check out our tracks you can see them here Jekyll Island Walkabout.

In a few days we fly to Columbus. Pull the bike out of storage, spend a week prepping it. Pack four months worth of clothes in a backpack and hit the long and windy road to the West Coast. Being homeless is not really a bad life. It does give us freedom to make the most out of our days.

We fill these walks with discussions about what is next, knowing that the end of hurricane season is another 5 months away, putting Mariposa back in the water was not the best idea. We talked about traveling to Europe to explore but with Covid & the war still lingering that was not the best choice. We could up our walking game and hike the Appalachian trail. It is a bit late in the season to make a reasonable attempt at that. We no longer have a car, so perhaps we could pick up a van and travel the US. With a bit of research, we quickly realized car prices are still insane, the camp grounds are totally full and gas prices only going up. So we shelved that idea. Out of the blue my incredibly adventurous wife suggested we ride the Harley across the US. We still own that and it would solve the issue of renting or buying a car. We have to visit our oldest daughter in Arizona so why not take it. I instantly wrote this idea off. When we purchased the Harley it was in Florida, and I remember flying down to ride it home with only a helmet and a backpack of tools. That trip consisted of 1200 miles over two days from southern Florida to Ohio, spanning the summer heat of Florida afternoons, and then navigating the late day thunderstorms followed by the cool nights in the mountains. Sounds fun right? Of coarse it does, the learning curve is small, I have ridden motorcycles as long as I have been able to walk and this seemed like the relaxing adventure we were looking for.

West she says!

Housesitting – Jekyll Island, Georgia, US, May 21, 2022

 Housesitting – Jekyll Island, Georgia, US, May 21, 2022

Our housesitting has been fun.  Weird but fun.  It’s hard to come to my parent’s house when they are not here.  However, we have had the time we needed to get a few big projects completed and the downtime we needed before heading out west. 

The first big project we knocked off the list was the sail bag or Stack Pak as sailors call it.  This bag is basically a bag that wraps around the main sail and protects it from the weather. It is huge some 18 feet long and heavy. Ours was not only in sad shape but since our boat was once a charter boat, it was the ugly “charter boat blue.”  This didn’t match any of the new canvas items we had made which were a nice grey.  We got a quote to have one made and it was $2,800!  Well since we are retired and had the time, we decided to get a secondhand walking foot sewing machine, the materials, and do it ourselves for about $900.  It was quite a job and took the two of us 4 days, but we did it!  I think Sailing Hubby had the machine apart about 4 times, but he made it work and we wrestled the huge garment to get it done.  I think it looks great!

Next on the list was replacing our exterior window shades.  We bought the shade fabric and used the machine to do these are well.  Lastly, was the cockpit surround but we have decided to wait and do this on the boat since there isn’t really a pattern and we will need to fit it several times during the process to get it right.

In addition to our own projects, we have kept all the plants alive (green thumb Hubby’s job).  Ron has mowed the lawn and having a big kitchen if helping us to cook the remainder of our pantry staples from the boat.  We still have a few projects and go through our stuff, get rid of some more, and decide what if anything we are taking back to the boat.  Good thing we still have 2 weeks to go.  It would be nice to fit in a beach day or two and some more downtime!

Decision Fatigue – Jekyll Island, Georgia, USA – May 20, 2022

 

Decision FatigueJekyll Island, Georgia, USA – May 20, 2022

I found myself completely paralyzed at the donut shop.  There were so many to pick from and I just stood there completely unable to do so.  I found myself in this situation a couple times recently since coming off the boat.  I believe I have caught a case of decision fatigue.  One of the hazards of living a nomadic life is it is literally impossible to put anything on autopilot.  You think about where you are and how to get there every time you get in the car.  There are no automatic commutes to work anymore where you know every turn and curve.  Which switch is for the dining room lights?  And now that we are staying in a house, we cannot seem to find anything because it’s so BIG compared to what we have become used to.  It’s amazing.

All the complications of land life make me crave the simplicity I have become accustomed to.  In the Bahamas, there were few decisions that weren’t made for us.  It was never “where do you want to go?”  It was simply this cay offers the best protection for the next storm and the weather told us when to be there.  The answer was not negotiable. 

As I thought through the dilemma of decision fatigue and the concept of autopilot for everyday life, it makes me grateful at the opportunity I have to make every decision and to chose what each day looks like.  Land life gives us the chance to decide where and how to spend our time.  It’s a gift.  I don’t want to live on autopilot as I have been guilty of in the past and maybe I don’t have decision fatigue.  I am simply not asking the right questions.

Our walks in the morning are the only thing that haven’t changed, and we have been lucky in that in Jekyll right now since it is loggerhead turtle season.  We have come across 6 fresh turtle nests so far walking the beaches.  This is good news as their populations are threatened due to habitat destruction (development) and their numbers are closely watched.  Jekyll is home to one of only a few turtle rescue centers on the east coast as well.  Turtles don’t make their decision, they simply come back to the place they were hatched, if they can.  No questions, no decisions. 

We Put Her to Bed – Jekyll Island, GA, USA, May 15, 2022

Well, that’s that for another few months.  The boat is officially as hurricane ready as she can be, which is good since the GFS weather model shows the potential of one next week!  Anyway, we have spent the remainder of our time in St. Augustine doing the following:

  •          Replaced the Sail Drive Seals
  •          Installed all new Engine Mounts
  •          Changed the oil in all engines
  •          Mounted the Dinghy Engine on the Back of the Boat
  •          Scrubbing the anchor lockers
  •          Unsalted the lines and washed all the fenders
  •          Waxed the stainless-steel rails
  •          Cleaned and vinegared all surfaces of the inside
  •          Bought anchor chain, marked, and installed
  •          Washed all linens and clothes
  •          Made and installed reflective window covers
  •          Removed the dinghy from the boat and secured underneath
  •          Removed all sails and sailbag
  •          Packed and removed all the food
  •          Cleaned the fridge and freezer and installed new seals
  •          Filled the diesel and water tanks
  •          Mounted the watermaker
  •          Designed a new fuel polishing system
  •          Scrubbed and degreased the outside of the boat
  •          Serviced half of the winches
  •          Touched up gel cost on anchor locker
  •          Removed all batteries and sunshades
  •          Ground out the fiberglass crack
  •          Ate A LOT of Mexican food
  •          Walked the beach
  •          Cleaned our Apartment & turned in the keys!

Yep – That about sums it up!  We were stupid last time and closed it up in two days.  Then we discovered, it was best to take a month and do it right…so that’s precisely what we did!  Much better choice.

Mom and Dad were kind enough to allow us to use their car while we are housesitting in Jekyll, so we also drove the Jekyll to pick up the car, turned in our rental car, and then loaded up!  It was nice to take our time in St. Augustine, but also got a lot accomplished now that I look at the list!  But now, we are happy to be in the “Parent’s Resort!” 

Our projects over the next 3 weeks are to replace our sailbag, make a surround for the helm, and repair our window coverings.  We pre-ordered all our supplies and dragged the sewing machine to Jekyll to entertain ourselves.  Let the fun begin am I right?  We have also settled into a nice pattern of walking our 5 miles a day again which is great, but man are we both sore!

As long as we are gluttons for punishment, we started talking about what happens when we leave Jekyll?  There’s nothing to fix right now!?!?   What will Sailing hubby do?  That’s when we started discussing the next adventure for our off season…taking a motorcycle trip out west.  We knew we were headed out west to see Daughter #1 but didn’t give doing this on a motorcycle much thought until the last couple weeks. 

Then we booked flights to Columbus to go pick up the bike, which is in our storage unit there.  Ron will need to change oil, replace the back tire, and do a bit of maintenance and then we are ready to roll!  The plan is to do a quick Ohio Tour again and start going west.  More to come on this as that is much of the plan as we have at the moment!  Sturgis here we come? 

Safe and sound for a few months.

Let’s get this party started!

The Price Tag – May 10, 2022, St. Augustine, Florida – Sailing Hubby Post!

Sailing fixit hubby here, sorry it has been a while as I have been busy.   Wow, what a year!  Let us do a quick recap!  Sell everything, quit our jobs, buy a boat, sail to the Bahamas, see incredible things, get our ass kicked a few(dozen) times by weather, horribly miss family, meet incredible friends. fix a lot of things along the way, then come home.   That really describes the last 6 months of our life.  If you have followed along in the blog, you had a front row seat to the good times and the bad.    The combination of those two extremes is what we like to call “The Price Tag”.   The incredible days at Tahiti beach do not come without the crappy weather to get there.   The crystal-clear water of the Exuma Land and Sea park, do not come without the 10 days of enduring shitty weather at Royal Island.   Some of our cruiser friends have nicknamed it “Hotel California”.  You can check out anytime you like but you can never leave.  In many ways they were spot on!  Incredible views, crystal clear water but a 360-degree razor rock shore which made it impossible to leave the boat.  Now that we are back several people have asked was it worth it?   Sally and I have asked ourselves this as well.   To be honest, during the last 6 months we have only talked about selling the boat a half dozen times.  Ironically most of these coming from me, and not Sally.   Being pushed out of your comfort zone is not easy and comfortable, but also the only way to grow in life.   As it turns out Sally is better than I am at this.  Who knew!   

Back to the Price Tag.  The equation of good and bad is pretty equal in the grand scheme of things until you add the amount of incredible people we have meant along the way.   When you factor in those people the good greatly outweighs the bad.   In this already long post, I want to call out a few cruisers that made this season incredible.     

Let us start with Solo Sailor Ben.   We meant Ben at a “dingy drift” in Hope Town on Xmas Eve.   Basically, a dingy drift is where you meet up in your dingy at the center of the bay, with drinks and food.  We all tie our boats together and drift across the anchorage having a great time, until we run out of beer or anchorage space.   Ben is a solo sailor and also a bit older than us.    To give you some background, he sails his boat from Annapolis MD to the Bahamas by himself, most of it offshore.   This means for at least 5 days he did not really sleep, and if he does it is for 10 minutes at a time, knowing in the back of his mind he could get run over by a cargo ship at the next sleep break.   Oh, did I mention Ben is in his mid 70’s?   Ben is hard core.  I want to be him when I grow up!   Ben taught us a lot in the early days and is a lifelong friend!    Side note.  We came back to our boat one afternoon to find a case of beer sitting on the back of our boat.  Beer is like gold in the Bahamas, Hard to find and when you find it, it is expensive.   Ben left it for us because he thought we ran out.    

Next up is Sheet Music.   Sheet Music’s crew is Mike, Lisa and Chipper.  What a great couple for adventure, not to mention the coolest cruiser dog we have ever meant.   Incredible days at the Land and Sea Park picking up plastic, snorkeling, and playing cards in the evening.  What incredible times.   We had to part ways after those days only to be reunited in Long Island later in the voyage.  I am forever grateful to them for going out of their way to bring us an inverter which I somehow blew up one morning.  

Lees’On Life is next on the forever friends list.   We meant Jeff and Karen in Green Turtle Cay towards the end of our voyage.   Perhaps at the height of our most stressful period since we had boat issues at this time.   Not only did they help us secure a mooring in an overly crowded mooring field, but they were also a breath of fresh air we needed in that anchorage.   They were staging with us for the crossing back and we shared the trip back from the Abacos to St Augustine.  They stuck with us for the most stressful point of our trip back.  When left with the choice of getting back, they slowed down to stay with us to make sure we made it back to the states.  In doing so they prolonged the shitty crossing back to help us.  Incredible people we are blessed to meet.   

To save the most impactful for last it is Caribbean Dream.   Not even sure how to describe Wayne and Brenda.   We meant shortly after Hope Town on the crossing to Royal Island and were together until we made it back to St Augustine.  Basically, 4 out of the 5 months.     Brenda taught us how to make incredible “Brenda Bread”, and Wayne every morning endured the weather routers web cast to ensure we had the best options on the next passage.    We shared how much we missed family, how shitty the weather was, and how good the rum tasted.  Lifelong friends! 

If you are still here reading, let me say this one last thing.    Don’t discount the people you meet in life.   Sometimes they are the ones that make it incredible.   Sally and I never gave that idea a second thought.  This past year it taught us perhaps we should.   

Boat work, boat work everywhere – April 18, 2022, St. Augustine, Florida

 Boat work, boat work everywhereApril 18, 2022, St. Augustine, Florida

Sailing Hubby started with engine week.  Before we left, while the boat was still in the slings, he pulled out the sail drive sensor and got a two-inch geyser of water.  Guess it was a real leak and not just the sensor!  First thing he started this week was he immediately pulled the port engine and took it apart.  We needed to get our parts ordered as we had no idea how long they would take to come in.  As luck would have it, there was a Yanmar dealer close by to get everything we needed in a few days. 

When he got it all apart, it revealed not only had one of the seal bands broke, but the main seal had a huge crack about 1.5 inches.  The crack was much worse than we thought and should have caused a much larger leak then we experienced.   Perhaps we should purchase a lottery ticket?   


Day two he pulled apart the starboard side…this reveled a ½ inch hole in the secondary seal.  Oh joy, this news was not much better that the port side.  Ugh.  We knew we were replacing both sides anyway, but boy, we thank the sailing Gods for getting us back as we could very easily have lost both engines and neither of us can believe we made it home.  I think all those superstitious toasts to Neptune have paid off!  We were able to order all the parts and get them within a day which was fantastic and better than we could have imagined!  

Sailing Hubby put together the port side and it is all back together and, in the boat, again.  We have the starboard side still apart and waiting on one of the seals to come in on Monday.  Things are looking good on that front, but we are certainly poorer from this process.  It is a gift Hubby can do all the work himself.  Meanwhile, I have defrosted the fridge/freezer, packed up all the food and it’s in the Airbnb, taken all the clothes and linens home, and all have been washed.  The kitchen is clean, however, I am not making a huge cleaning effort since our next project is grinding fiberglass inside.  That stuff is like drywall and gets everywhere with the added bonus of making you itch uncontrollably.    This will keep me from doing the cleaning twice.  More boat work to go…

Whirlwind – St Augustine, Florida to Columbus, Ohio, April 9, 2022

Whirlwind – St Augustine, Florida to Columbus, Ohio, April 9, 2022

Three Daughter’s, two sisters, and a set of parents in a pear tree later, we drove 3,000+ miles this week as we made our rounds to visit.  It was nice and we were both ready to see everyone and take a week off from the boat after our hellish crossing.  So off we went to Clearwater, Florida to see Daughter #3.  We had a nice dinner with her and met the boyfriend.  He was very nice and we were happy we liked him, Hubby forgot his gun after all.  It’s always a hard thing for a dad.  Sadly, it was spring break week and every hotel was $400+ per night so we started driving until we came to at least the first stop which was reasonable…two hours later.

We had decided to stop for a day to see my parents at Jekyll Island, GA which was only a 5 hour trip but after our two hours of driving, decided to stop and get some shut eye.  We had a great visit and we were glad we didn’t have to make a full day run from Clearwater to Columbus as that drive was more than we wanted in one day.  After a day’s visit we started out again.

The next morning, we made the long stretch to Columbus, OH and after a quick stop to see my sister, crashed in a hotel nearby.  We had a busy day planned to start at the BMV.  Ah, the smell of bureaucracy with a large cup of coffee.  Sailing (or is it now Driving?) Hubby waited the hour required to replace his license and I walked over to the nearby pharmacy where I had a prescription refilled to see if I can get it transferred to Florida.  We were both successful and had checked off items 1 & 2. 

Now onto see daughter #4 for lunch.  She is doing great at school, and we miss the girls terribly.  That night we had planned dinner with my sister.  I swear we did nothing this week but drive and eat.  But all was fun and hitting our favorite Mexican place didn’t hurt either! 

Ohio wasn’t finished yet, so we drove to Cleveland to see Daughter #2.  It was also my birthday, so it was nice to celebrate with her.  Her apartment looked great and the adulting process seems to be really taking hold!  The funny part of that trip was our lunch.  It was on the brink of rain and the place we walked to was closed so we ducked into the closest next option which was a Lebanese place.  Yeah, my meat-eating husband was less than happy (lamb is not his thing).  I was the only one happy there with my falafel and hummus, but we got a good laugh anyway.  That evening after dinner, we drove south outside of the city to avoid rush hour the following morning.  

The next day we drove to West Virginia to see Ron’s sister.  Bonus we got to stay in her camper next to her house.  Sadly, we woke up to a very chilly 27 degrees and even had to scrape the windshield.  I am glad we avoided the worst of this winter thing, and it is the closest I hope we get to snow this year.  We enjoyed our time visiting and we headed back to Jekyll.

The traffic could not have been worse getting to Mom & Dad’s.  What should have been an 8-hour drive was a 14-hour drive.  Spring break travelers were everywhere!!  We finally arrived and spent the weekend at Mom and Dad’s, resting and psyching ourselves up for the next several weeks of non-stop boat work.  They say the best two days to own a boat are the day you buy and the day you sell.  I guess we will see.  


We checked into our Airbnb that Ron had found through a cruiser’s forum, and we were pleasantly surprised at how great it was.  Two-bedroom, nice kitchen, washer/dryer, and 2.5 bath!  It was clean and the people seemed great.  They were spending 2 months in Europe, and I am glad they decided to rent out their space to us.  Nothing left now but to hit the hay and go to see our beauty tomorrow.

It’s a Sad Day – St. Augustine, Florida, USA, 4-8-22

 It’s a Sad Day – St. Augustine, Florida, USA, 4-8-22

The mood on board of our boat was somber at best.  We sat the night before watching dolphins and having a beer for the last time.  It was time to pack it up and put her away.  We had a lot of work to do, friends to bid farewell, and family to visit.  It would be the first time we will try out our new life to see if it fits.  We have not been retired on land, not been homeless on land, and don’t have much of a plan on land.  Somehow this feels different.  Will we like it?  I don’t know yet but for now, that’s the most planning we can pull together.

Today is haul out day and we awoke to a less than cheerful 58 degrees in Florida.  Are you kidding me?  I want to go back to the Bahamas where it was 80!  Apparently, there is a wicked cold front passing through.  I guess we will fight the weather to the very end.  


This is always stressful since as a rule, putting your boat on the hard is hard on the boat.  We are starting hurricane season early due to our sail drive (I think).  Let’s face it, it isn’t what the boat was designed to do.  I give credit to the boat yard as they do have a lot of experience even with boats much larger than our small little cat, but it is still nerve racking.  Thankfully this paid off and all went well.  Ron whipped out the sail drive sensor and indeed he was right.  The port side was leaking quite badly so the good news is we didn’t come back for nothing.  She has found her new home for the next 6 months.  

As our home was safe and sound it was time to move to step two…we needed some wheels.  Ron had reserved a car and we ubered to pick it up.  Our uber driver was roughly 80 and clearly only driving as he was a bit lonely.  After being completely terrified and hearing his life story, we arrived.  Sadly, our car was not ready and there was an issue with the reservation.  They said to come back in a couple hours.  Now remember, Hubby has lost his wallet including his license.  So now I got to reserve the car, but I was not a member of the “supersecret car club” to get the awesome price he did.  Our new friend (the outwardly gay & half in drag employee at the car rental office) worked us a deal and said there were a few restaurants close by so, we decided to find some breakfast.

Now visualize this…we had just pas a pawn shop, gun store, tattoo parlor, and gambling establishment.  I think this lets you imagine the type of neighborhood we were in.  Two blocks away we found the only place open (it was only 10AM) and much to my delight…wait for it…it was a vegetarian restaurant!!!  It wasn’t even my birthday!  I am sure you can guess how happy Sailing Hubby was about this choice.  I couldn’t wipe the smile off my face.  

After a lovely tofu scramble 😊, we packed up and headed to Clearwater Florida to see daughter #3 and meet the boyfriend.  As a father, this is always nerve racking wondering if this was a moment to ready the gun and shovel or, we may actually like him.  Good news is we actually like this guy, so this was a relief.  We had a nice dinner and it was great to see her happy.

After dinner we still had yet to book our hotel.  We had underestimated the hotel costs and quickly realized why.  It was spring break and not only was everything booked, but the cost was roughly triple.  A hotel in Clearwater was ~$450.  So, knowing that was not happening, we started to drive.  We were not able to find anything that was not 100% booked for about two hours and finally got a room about 9:00.  We almost drive back to the boat! 

A good night’s rest, a shower with as much hot water as I want without turning it off, and a magic toilet where all just disappears did us a world of good.  We took off the next morning to visit my parents in Jekyll Island, Georgia to spend a few days.  We were looking forward to being anywhere that seemed familiar and this will hopefully be it. 

Where It All Started – St. Augustine, Florida, USA, 4-8-21

 

Where It All Started– St. Augustine, Florida, USA, 4-7-21

We did some unwinding on a mooring in St. Augustine for a few days since we got here on Tuesday and were not able to arrange an early haul out.  Ron had some consulting to catch up on and it was nice to be back in a town we knew so well.

Sailing Hubby drove the intercoastal majority since it is the freeway of mariner traffic (a.k.a. insanity on a stick).  We saw boats aground, shallow shoals, sail drive leaks (only a little), people anchoring too close, with mega yachts & speed boats galore passing you at a moments notice (even under a bridge!).    It was crazy and stressful but it back to the starting when we got here, Sailing Hubby crashed…hard.  Even though we fought the weather the entire season, there was the promise of next season.  


Although it is weird to be back, it is starting to feel a bit more like home.  We had a chance to get our favorite tacos at Osprey and pizza by the slice at Pizza Time in Old Town.  We did some non-food stuff too but, hey, I like to eat!  Only 3 miles to the marina from here.

Wallet Capers – Fort Pierce enroute to Vero Beach, Florida, 3-30-22

Wallet Capers – Fort Pierce enroute to Vero Beach, 3-30-22

The competition in Florida is fierce for marinas and mooring balls.  That meant, our group was up and off Wednesday morning at 7:00am.  We saw how many boats had made the crossing and were anchored at Fort Pierce, Florida.  We didn’t want to stay here for the blow the next three days since there was not a nice marina close, we were anchored very close to the channel and the current was strong, not to mention, there wasn’t much to see or do on land for those 3 days.  We wanted to go to Vero Beach which was a nicer place to rest for a couple days.

Ron and I had changed our minds about pushing hard to get directly up to St. Augustine.  Our sail drive was now leaking so little (less than when we left ?!?), we thought we had a little more time to stay with our peeps.  Our group ended up on a mooring ball at the Vero Beach Marina and they were great.  We filled with water, diesel, and could not just rest for the next couple days.  Finally!  We were not able to move north in the Intercoastal with the storms anyway.  Time to celebrate, or so we thought…

We had decided to take an UBER to dinner with our group since it was a bit too far to walk.  No sooner had we sat down at the table when Sailing Hubby realizes he had left his backpack in the UBER, with his wallet in it.  I guess he is not used to carrying a murse.   The UBER driver had already left, and he was now frantically trying to reach him.  After 20 messages and contacting UBER customer support, we had still not heard back from the driver to know whether it was still there or if he just pocketed the wallet and about $100 in cash that was in it. 

We still had a lovely dinner and thanked our team for their patience, assistance, but most of all their friendship.  We are lucky people indeed.  To wrap up the night, one of our buddy boats had lost their freezer on the crossing as the bashing waves knocked out their compressor.  We were all frantically making freezer space to help save their groceries.  I think we saved most if not all and nothing was lost.  We will travel up with them to St. Augustine and when they haul out at St. Mary’s, they can come get their stuff then. 

And just like that, a steak dinner was planned for the following evening since a few of the steaks were thawing!  Apparently, we are celebrating again!  Sailing Hubby is thrilled, especially since we are cancelling all our bank cards today.  It is some sort of upside to an otherwise crappy day.  

Fort Pierce sunrise!   


Grab Bag – Fort Pierce, Florida, 3-29-22



Grab Bag – Fort Pierce, Florida, 3-29-22

When was the last time you had to get everything together you wanted to own and put it in a backpack so in a moment’s notice, you can save that, and only that?  At some point we must slow down.  We said this back in October, remember?  It is now March and we have yet to do it.  The most incredible part is we made the crossing from the Bahamas to the US…without sinking, which I would not have guessed.   Should unpack my grab bag?  I have faith beyond words in my captain, however a sail drive issue is nothing to mess with. 

The crossing didn’t go like we planned in any other way other than…we made it with the boat above water.  That alone is an accomplishment.  We had listened to the forecast, watched WINDY, analyzed, and even purchased a special forecast based on our special need for this crossing.  We needed an extremely calm forecast to attempt not to unseat the rest of the sail drive and fill that portion of the boat with water.  If we don’t get it, we need to reroute to have an emergency haul out at West End.  The hope is if we cannot cross, we could haul out before we kill the engine or cause real damage like…sink.

Ron was diligently watching the forecast and wasn’t seeing the perfect time that our weather service had told us was coming.  This was on Sunday.  We had expected an email with specific waypoints telling us where to be when to get the best weather possible and when to hit the gulfstream.  Disappointingly, we didn’t get it til midnight on Sunday.  Midnight?  You want sailors to plan at midnight when they expect to leave Monday at dawn?    We already did planning with two other experienced buddy boats by then and based on the timely issues/ we had, decided to go.  The weather service and their expertise played in at the last minute.

At dawn, it was anchors up and we led the way out of the anchorage channel.  Since we were the only cat on our team, we were reporting the depths back to the group.  We knew we would make it regardless of the tides, but our buddy boats had to be more cautious. We were not at high tide and still needed to get going to get to the Fort Pierce inlet at the correct current change (slack tide).  It isn’t all tiki bars and bikinis.  There’s also math involved!  No one said anything about math when we started!  Fun fact…majority of sailors are engineers and pilots.  I now understand this fact completely.  Our captains calculated when the current was changing in Fort Pierce inlet and worked their way back from there to determine when we would leave.  We had a few extra hours and stopped at Sail Cay to nap before continuing.

It was calm on the first portion and getting out on the channel went fine.  I had taken seasick medication, and all was well in the beginning.  I always take meds since the only time I have issues is on passage days.  It was rougher than expected on the way to Sail Cay but we got there at 7:00pm.  We were glad to not only get a few hours sleep but a break from the waves as well.   

Anchors were up again at 10:00pm and at that point we picked up a 4th buddy boat.  Their buddy boat had turned back and decided, based on the conditions, not to continue.  We started off again and sadly, the weather had not improved, it had only gotten worse.  Neither Ron nor I could sleep it was SO choppy and the waves were hitting so heard on the bridge deck, it had pushed open the cupboards in the lower cabins, his bolt cutters had fallen out of the cabinet, and I swear damaged the floor.  We were beating the heck out of the boat and knew we wouldn’t make it all the way if the weather continued as bad as it was.  We needed a new plan.

We were not that far from West End at this point, only about 5 hours.  If it didn’t get better, we had decided we could not continue.  Our buddy boat discussed waiting until the updated weather forecast before deciding to stop and we agreed.  Once the weather came through it was supposed to significantly improve once we hit the gulfstream, so we pushed on. 

The swell was 6-8 feet and by this time there was a small craft advisory as well.  With our handicap, we could only go around 3 knots.  To hit the Fort Pierce Inlet in time, we needed to be doing a minimum of 5 knots.  Here is where I give a HUGE credit to our buddy boats.  All of them slowed down with us and were also willing to bail with us at the West End if we needed to.  I can’t say enough how rare this is and how grateful we both were to call them our friends.

Our situation improved as we hit the gulfstream and we were able to pick up speed with improved conditions.  We even put out a sail.  This helped our morale, we were able to  do nearly 6-7 knots, and could now make up some time!   The joke with sailors is, “How many times did you sell the boat on the crossing?”  Let’s just say our weather service is to be longer to mentioned in my presence and they could not have gotten the forecast any farther off.  Being a weatherman is the only job where you can be wrong 100% of the time and still have a job.  Huh?

We got to Florida after the horrific crossing, through inlet around 6:30pm Tuesday evening, and dropped anchor.  While I was trying to pick up everything that had fallen and broken during the rough voyage, Ron was checking us back in the country.  It included a short conference call and was remarkably easy.  At least that worked out.   Ron was beyond exhausted, and we quickly crashed and burned!  

It started off pretty.  

A Shout Out to Captain Ron – Green Turtle, Bahamas, March 26, 2022



A Shout Out to Captain Ron
– Green Turtle, Bahamas, March 26, 2022

What was the last time you have been challenged?  I mean when your life didn’t look like the dunkin’ donuts guy (“time to make the donuts” sound familiar?) or a scene from Joe vs. the Volcano?  We made a lot of changes this year, and while voluntary, they were a lot.  I need to call out Sailing Hubby who took on ensuring all these fun, awesome changes didn’t kill us.

Sailing Hubby was the one who was up every hour when it was windy overnight, always checking the mooring lines for chaffing, learning the weather models and watching WINDY for the next storm, knew where my purse-phone-and shoes were more often than I did, fixed everything from the inverter to the plumbing, managed the immigration process since the captain has to check the boat in and out, always knew the tide and current, contacted the marina to arrange the mooring at the next port, balancing his consulting gig, took watch even when it was raining (we have no surround :().  He did all this and more non-stop for our entire trip.

It ended up being more than he bargained for in many ways.  The weather specifically, learning to dock a boat much bigger than he was used to in very tight spots next to very expensive vessels. 

So, let me ask you…when was the last time you took on a life change this big and let yourself be new and frankly bad at something until you learned to do it right?  Well, I will get to find out very soon as I will be doing many more of these activities as we make more and longer crossings.  I can only hope I get as much of it right as he has.

Thank you Sailing Hubby and Happy 9th Anniversary!

Wrapping up our cruising for 2022 Season – Green Turtle, Bahamas, March 22, 2022

 Wrapping up our cruising for 2022 Season– Green Turtle, Bahamas, March 22, 2022

We landed in Green Turtle to stage for a weather window and check out of immigration before heading to the US.  Looks like Monday is our day to go.  I thought of a few items I wanted to point out as we abruptly end our cruising season due to our sail drive issue.  Here they are in random order.

 Strange things about boat life or retirement:

  • ·         When was the last time you met your friends and didn’t wear shoes? 
  • ·         I have left the boat & forgotten shoes til we get on land
  • ·         Our exercise routine – 18000 steps or 57…literally
  • ·         I have no idea what day of the week it is, nor do I care
  • ·         No power = no oven, or hot shower.  You end up choosing cold dinner in trade for a warm shower
  • ·         Watching TV…on our phone to save data
  • ·         We do mostly the same activities and spend 1/3 of what we did on land.
  • ·         If it’s windy, we stay home.  That’s new.
  • ·         My salt & spices are now a solid – grrr
  • ·         I wear a rubber band for my hair on my wrist 100% of the time cause it’s windy!
  • ·         I never wore sunscreen or got burned
  • ·         The weather is nothing like BVI
  • ·         I didn’t learn as much about sailing & we really motored a lot
  • ·         For a nice boat – a lot of major stuff broke
  • ·         When it rains, it wakes you up since your window is over your head
  • ·         You can hear the shrimp clicking, eating from the bottom of the haul sometimes
  • ·         Most of all, the great people we were privileged to meet

 

First things I’ll order when we get back:

  • ·         Mexican food & Osprey Tacos!
  • ·         A freaking electric toothbrush!!
  • ·         New sandals since the salt have literally eaten mine and I cannot believe they have made it this long!

 

Stuff we never ran out of:

  • ·         Toilet paper
  • ·         Toothpaste
  • ·         Wine & liquor – huh?

 

The best advice we got when we first started:

  • ·         everyone gets the same weather & has the same maps
  • ·         each boat has one captain

 

Memorable moments of 2022 season:

  • ·         The weather and it’s “Bermuda highs” with 20+ knot clocking winds
  • ·         Leonard & the Hamilton caves on Long Island
  • ·         Exuma land & sea park hiking & snorkeling
  • ·         Royal island & our first storm with 55+ knot winds
  • ·         Hopetown Lighthouse as my Christmas tree
  • ·         Mermaid sculpture
  • ·         The Hermitage on Cat Island
  • ·         Hawks nest marina & the airport crossing
  • ·         Spearing huge lobsters!
  • ·         Sail drive leaking shortened our trip
  • ·         On da beach & its $25 per case of beer
  • ·         Tahiti beach for New Year’s
  • ·         Calabash Bay just might be Eden
  • ·         Little San Salvador’s McPlayland cruise ship island
  • ·         Hamburger Beans
  • ·         Coconut Rum & Lemonade is awesome!
  • ·         The Tranquil Turtle – what happens here stays here
  • ·         Our new Inverter

 

What have I learned in the past 7 months?

  • ·         Weather trumps EVERYTHING – it determines not only when but where you go – always
  • ·         Tides and current matter a lot more than we knew til we did our initial cruise in Georgia
  • ·         Composting toilet isn’t so bad if we treat it nicely and follow a specific protocol
  • ·         The boat will talk to you – every noise means something from the freshwater pump dictating we have a leak to the creaking meaning there are bulkhead issues (which thankfully we do not have!)
  • ·         It is key to identify the single points of failure and have a spare.  As MacGyver as Sailing Hubby is, he cannot make every part with minimal tools & materials
  • ·         That little RV washing machine is worth its weight in gold!
  • ·         We need way less than we have even on the boat now (and we got rid of 80% of our stuff before we got here and could get rid of 50% more).  We don’t even go on the other half of the boat.  It is just storage.
  • ·         We know we will do this next year and go farther
  • ·         We now know how to spot coral heads
  • ·         I know proper radio protocol and how to hail another boat via VHF.  It’s kinda like a CB and your boat name is your trucker nick name.
  • ·         Sleeping on a boat is a dream and like being rocked to sleep.  I will miss it.
  • ·         It gets cold, even in the Bahamas in the winter.  I can also sleep in 40-degree weather.  Not all things I have learned have been good.
  • ·         Internet in the Bahamas is a as bad as I thought it would be
  • ·         People are inherently good and helpful in the islands.  The cruiser community really is amazing with incredible people majority of the time
  • ·         I have seen more sunsets in this past 7 months than I have in the last 30 years
  • ·         I was rarely seasick and when I was it was, it was on passage day.  I was unsure how this would go, and it was better than I could have imagined
  • ·         Bitch wings, smack the donkey, and sea beans…’nough said
  • ·         I can anchor all by myself AND get a mooring now!
  • ·         Storms and 50+ winds suck on a boat
  • ·         It’s easy to use less power and water when it’s measured, and we pay attention.  Solar powered is a dream, and our completely electric kitchen is WAY better than our old propane one.  Our carbon footprint is smaller than it has ever been.
  • ·         Our poor beaches are choked in plastic.  Please boycott the plastic packaging for goods and buy glass or aluminum if it is ever available.
  • ·         The Bahamian diet always consists of several main options which are:  peas and rice, mac and cheese, conch, and slaw. 
  • ·         In the Bahamas, rum is cheaper than orange juice.
  • ·         We did not buy enough beer when we started and had to buy more – we will know better next time.  It is REALLY expensive here (as in $48-$67 a case!!)
  • ·         Ramen noodles are inexpensive and available everywhere.
  • ·         50% of the vessels in the Bahamas are Canadian, who knew?
  • ·         It is WAY more expensive living on land in the US than the cruising lifestyle.  It is too easy to spend money on land.  In the Bahamas, outside activities are free.

We have learned a so much this year.  Everything from boat handling & mechanics, to the weather, to the people.  It has been fantastic, and we know this was the right choice for us to come.

Let the Limping Begin – Hopetown, Bahamas, March 20. 2022

 Let the Limping Begin – Hopetown, Bahamas, March 20. 2022

We made it safely to Hopetown on Friday night.  Step 1 was to complete the crossing of the Abaco Sound via open ocean.  We have been presented with several options. 

·         Option 1 – is to haul out in Marsh Harbor if we cannot see a weather window to Florida anytime soon

·         Option 2 – wait it out and limp to Florida. 

As any good cruiser would do, we decided to head to the local hang out and mull it over at the charity concert supporting the “Abaco Rage.”  This is the defending champion regatta team.  It was a great distraction from our recent issues and good to get off the boat for a while.

 

Marsh Harbor is an expensive solution to our problem, and we saw a weather window came up to potentially get to Green Turtle and next across the gulf stream.  Instead of enduring the pain of VAT tax, parts shipping, Marsh Harbor haul out, and accommodations in the Bahamas, we have decided to limp the boat to Florida.  This saves us having to haul out the boat two times as well.  Ron will be wiring up the back up bilge pumps and we are putting together a ditch bag, if necessary, but in good faith it will not be.

Now…getting to Green Turtle, which is only a 25-mile trip through “the whale” from Hopetown.  Good news is we do not have to go through “the whale” and can take the easy inside route to get there which we plan to do to be easy on our boat.  “The whale” is a cut around Whale Cay.   The bad news is our buddy boat must go through the whale as the inside route we are taking is too shallow for them.  Right now, we are waiting on a window to cross on the same day they do even though we are not taking the exact same route.  We have identified Wednesday as the day for both of us can leave.  We already have a mooring reserved waiting on our arrival. 

 

Let the limping begin.

Houston we have a Problem! – Current Cut, Bahamas, March 18, 2022

Houston we have a Problem! – Current Cut, Bahamas, March 18, 2022

And just like that, it’s over.  Sailing Hubby confirmed our major problem this morning and it is the sail drive boot that is leaking.  Sadly, this means we had to cancel the plane tickets to see daughter #2.  We spent yesterday trying to determine where we can haul out the boat which is required to fix this issue.  It doesn’t seem to make sense to do this anywhere but St. Augustine since only a couple places in the Bahamas can haul us out, the parts would be next to impossible to find and then likely have 50% Import tax.  We would also need to pay for our land accommodations as we cannot stay on the boat while it’s being fixed.  It makes more sense to get it hauled out and fixed reasonably in the US because the leak remains minimal and we intent to limp this home for an early haul out.   

I pouted that poor me and my first world problem.  When Ron and I started, we had hoped to find a way to give back in out retirement.  We did, a little.  What we didn’t bank on was being the recipient of such generosity.  One of our buddy boats has been thinking about ending their trip early anyway as the weather had been so bad this season and they decided to go back to the US with us in case anything would happen on our journey back.  Now that my friends, is true grace and selflessness and I am grateful beyond belief.

It kicks into gear a process we were not at all ready for and that is setting up land life again.  We need to get there first, get on the haul out schedule in St. Augustine, get a car, find an apartment for a month to get some of the repairs done and close the boat for hurricane season, then we will head to my parents to housesit for a few weeks before going to Ohio to see the girls.  It’s going to be a busy few months, and the adventure definitely continues, it just doesn’t look exactly like we thought but that in and of itself is the definition of adventure right?

There is a storm coming on Sunday evening and we need to be in a protected anchorage by then and the goal is to get to Green Turtle on a mooring ball for the blow.  We are on our way to the Abacos this morning, which is out last stretch of open ocean til the crossing, and plan to be in Hopetown by tonight.  After that, we will make the next jump to Green Turtle then Sail Cay.  Once we get a gentle weather window, we will do the crossing to the US and head north for our haul out.   

Sunrise in the open ocean.  Let’s get this day started!


Full moon to end a stressful day. 

We Stayed for a Quickie – Tarpum Bay, Eleuthera, Bahamas, March 16, 2022

We Stayed for a Quickie – Tarpum Bay, Eleuthera, Bahamas, March 16, 2022

We were required by the dock master to stay on board in Little San Salvador, which was fine by us.  We had to be up early and out before first light to beat the cruise ship and we could see it coming s we departed.  It was not an option for us to stay anchored at the island at all, so we didn’t even check the weather.  Unfortunately, the 25 knot winds we encountered were not forecasted anyway.  It was the worst weather we had sailed in yet and Ron and I were both schooled.  The only positive thing about the ride was Buddy, Biscuit, and Daisy brought more friends and we had an entire pod of dolphins’ sail with us for about ½ and hour.  This is why we do this! 



 

We landed at Tarpum Bay and the anchorage could not have been more perfect.  It was calm, clear turquoise water and I immediately jumped in the water, dove the anchor, and swam to shore.  The nice part was when I got tired, I could just stand up as it was so shallow! 

We had another long day planned tomorrow and sadly; we have identified a major issue with our port engine.  It may have a slow seawater leak in the sail drive from the rough seas we sailed today.  This means we will not be using this issue the rest of the trip which is very bad.  We have the option to haul the boat out in Spanish Wells (which we are eerily close to), however, we just booked airline tickets for our daughter to fly in and stay with us in Marsh Harbor.  Um uh oh!  Ron is going to call the mechanic which we met last time we were through the marina, so we do have some options, but I know how good a mechanic Sailing Hubby is and he is likely right on this issue.  We took off to get through current cut this morning, hobbling engine or not.  Our other option to get it hauled and fixed is Marsh harbor, which is close to where we checked into the Bahamas.

There is this interesting thing called “the cruiser’s highway.”  We were unaware of this when we started but it is the most travelled route in the Bahamas.  Most boats stop at Georgetown to spend the season, which is why it is called “chicken bay.”  Anything after Georgetown going south or the eastern Caribbean requires open ocean that most folks don’t want to or are afraid to do.  Spanish Wells is on the Cruiser’s highway which is why they have a solid marina and good diesel mechanics.  Ron said this is something we cannot ignore since if this starts leaking badly, the boat will sink in about ½ an hour if the bilge pumps can not keep up.    Never a dull moment.

Rolling Our way to San Salvador Island – En Route to Little San Salvador Island, Bahamas, March 15, 2022

Rolling our way to Little San Salvador Island – En Route to Little San Salvador Island, Bahamas, March 15, 2022

Yesterday while touring the island by car, we stopped at Fernandez Bay to look at the anchorage.  It looked beautiful with a 5-star resort, restaurant, and white sand beach.  Unfortunately, it was too shallow for our buddy boats to anchor so after having our fill of no-see-ums, we ended up making a last-minute decision this morning after leaving Hawk’s Nest Marina to head east to Little San Salvador Island.  We had originally planned to simply anchor on north Cat Island, but with lots of time on a nice weather day, why not?  Since Cat Island is a small family island with less than 2,000 people, we felt like we had seen what it had to offer by car and were ready to move on. 

We were fortunate enough to have our friends Buddy & Biscuit join us for the trip and they brought a few friends!

 

We needed to anchor in Half Moon Bay and since Little San Salvador is a private island, owned by a cruise ship company, we needed to wait until they left for the day before we could drop the hook.  It is hopefully the closest I will ever get to a cruise ship.  The island itself is beautiful, but we didn’t get off the boat.  Sadly, it is a very rolly anchorage, but this is our only stopping point on our way back to Eleuthera.  It will be a quick overnight stay as we need to head out before the cruises get back in the morning at 7:00 am.  


Heights of the Bahamas– Cat Island, Bahamas, March 14, 2022

Heights of the Bahamas– Cat Island, Bahamas, March 14, 2022

Since we were not able to see much on Cat by boat with the weather, we decided to split a rental car with a couple more cruisers and see the Island by land.  In typical Ron and Sally fashion, our rental car left a little to be desired, much like our travels in Costa Rica.  It was a Toyota Land Cruiser with 240,000 miles on it and very was rusted from the salt.  Unfortunately, since it rained intermittently during the day, one of the rust spots was though the roof so whomever sat in the third-row seat, was a bit wet.  The guys were champs and took one for the team on that one.  Where is a roll of duct tape when you need one?

We started off the day seeing ruins of a cotton plantation.  Now, you know our track record with ruins, so we were pleasantly surprised it was more than a pile of rocks.  These were actually pretty cool and were ruins from the Devereaux Family.  

 After this we went to see the highlight of the island, The Hermitage, which is not only a one-man monastery but also the highest point in the Bahamas, at 63 meters high.  It was built by a Catholic priest, who was also an architect and sculptor, back in the 1930’s and completed in the 1940’s.  The fact that he was a sculptor was evident in his work.  Apparently, he lived and meditated there alone once it was completed and considered it his retirement haven.  It is a beautiful place with panoramic views and all the amenities you may need like a well for water, chapel for worship, and sleeping space.  He built several other cathedrals throughout the Bahamas including the one we saw in Clarence Town, Long Island.  

 

On our way to the top, we walked up one of the most interesting parts, the Stations of the Cross.  It is a narrow sone stairway with over a dozen carvings of Jesus carrying the cross.  The whole place is very moving.   

 We did stop at the famous “Da Pink Chicken” and were basically grossed out.  The place was a shack, even by Bahamian standards, with meat rotting in coolers outside.  It ended up being a good thing that they were closed, and we ended up stopping for lunch near the rack n scrape in New Bight.  Cat Island is the birthplace of “Rake N Scrape” Music, which is Bahamian sounding music played on a common handsaw scraped with a screwdriver and joined by an accordion.  Ron would feel very at home based on his West Virginia roots.  Reminiscent of blue grass.